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Araucanía

Araucanía

Araucanía

Where nature rewards those who move.

At first, Araucanía can feel strangely familiar. Green forests, lakes, mountains — landscapes whose codes you may recognise if you come from Europe. And then you start walking. The forest becomes denser. Ancient araucaria trees rise above you. Volcanoes dominate the horizon. The trail climbs, your legs begin to feel it — and suddenly the landscape opens. That's when Araucanía reveals itself. Here, some of the most extraordinary views aren't waiting beside the road. You walk towards them. You climb for them. You earn them. And perhaps that's why they stay with you.

In Araucanía, you don't simply contemplate nature. You become part of it.

In Araucanía, you don't simply contemplate nature. You become part of it.

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Is Araucanía for you?

Is Araucanía for you?

Is Araucanía for you?

Araucanía sits somewhere between two ways of experiencing Chilean nature. It has some of the familiarity and abundance of the Lake District — forests, lakes, volcanoes and thermal waters — but asks more of you in return. Trails climb higher. Viewpoints have to be reached on foot. Days can be more physical. You may finish tired, muddy or with aching legs. And that's precisely the point. This is a region I particularly like for active travellers who don't simply want to look at extraordinary landscapes, but want the satisfaction of reaching them. For families or travellers looking for easier access to nature and a slower rhythm, I may favour the Lake District. For hikers and active travellers who want to feel immersed in the landscape, Araucanía can be extraordinary.

Walk through a prehistoric landscape

Conguillío is my favourite national park in Chile. The Sierra Nevada trail begins beneath the forest canopy, climbing steadily between ancient araucaria trees. Then there are the reminders that this landscape is very much alive: volcanic rock, old lava flows and the immense presence of Llaima volcano. The climb demands some effort. But eventually you cross the ridge. And suddenly, everything opens. Forest, lakes, volcanoes and mountains stretch out beneath you — the kind of view that makes you forget, at least temporarily, how hard you worked to reach it. The araucarias make the experience even more extraordinary. Their unusual silhouettes seem to belong to another geological era, standing like witnesses to everything this landscape has endured.

Some views are more beautiful because you had to earn them.

Cross the ridge and discover what's behind it

Huerquehue plays a similar trick. The trail climbs gradually through the forest, offering glimpses back towards the landscape you left below. Then you cross the ridge. On the other side, a completely different world appears: a succession of mountain lakes surrounded by forest and araucarias, their waters shifting between deep blue and turquoise. It's one of the things I love about hiking in Araucanía.

The landscape doesn't show you everything at once.

Climb an active volcano

For travellers looking for a physical challenge, Villarrica takes the idea of adventure considerably further. This isn't simply a hike. It's a mountain experience: technical equipment, snow beneath your feet, hours of climbing and the strange sensation of knowing that the mountain beneath you is an active volcano. Reaching the upper slopes after the physical effort is exhilarating And when conditions allow, the descent can be almost as memorable as the climb.

For a few hours, you get to feel like a mountaineer.

Pucón: embrace the energy

Pucón: embrace the energy

Pucón: embrace the energy

Let's be clear: Pucón isn't a hidden village untouched by tourism. It has the energy of a mountain resort — restaurants, cafés, outdoor shops, travellers coming and going, and an enormous choice of activities. Some people love that atmosphere. Others come to Chile looking for something quieter and more remote. Personally, I love it.

Pucón is a place where it's remarkably easy to wake up and decide what kind of day you want to have. Climb a volcano. Go rafting or canyoning. Ride a horse. Rent a bike. Spend the afternoon on the black volcanic sand of Playa Grande. Or do absolutely none of that and disappear into thermal waters instead.

Adventure when you want it. Rest when you need it.

Adventure when you want it. Rest when you need it.

Earn the view. Then soak.

Earn the view. Then soak.

Earn the view. Then soak.

Not every day needs to involve climbing a mountain. Around Pucón, water offers almost as many possibilities as the trails: rafting, canyoning and other river adventures for those who still have energy to burn. And when you don't? Go to the thermal baths. From the extraordinary setting and architecture of Termas Geométricas to newer alternatives surrounded by vegetation, this is one region where I happily build recovery into the itinerary. Because a good adventure doesn't need to leave you exhausted every day.

Sometimes the best reward for yesterday's hike is spending today in hot water beneath the forest.

Sometimes the best reward for yesterday's hike is spending today in hot water beneath the forest.

Sometimes the best reward for yesterday's hike is spending today in hot water beneath the forest.

A landscape with a living culture.

A landscape with a living culture.

A landscape with a living culture.

Araucanía isn't only defined by its volcanoes and forests. It is also one of the historic heartlands of the Mapuche people, whose territory and culture extend across what is now Chile and Argentina. Rather than reducing that culture to a short demonstration, I prefer experiences that create time for genuine exchange. Spend a day — or even a night — with members of a local community. Learn about traditions, beliefs, music, medicinal plants and the relationship between people and the land. And the experience doesn't necessarily need to follow a fixed programme. If there is something you are particularly curious about, it can sometimes be shaped around your interests. Because meaningful encounters aren't about observing someone else's culture from a distance.

They begin with listening.

They begin with listening.

How long should you stay?

5 days — A first adventure

Arrive through Temuco and head towards Conguillío. Give the national park a full day before continuing towards Pucón, where the rhythm changes completely. From there, choose what calls you most: a physical challenge, thermal waters, a river adventure, the beach or simply time around town. Then continue south towards the Lake District. It's active, but it gives you a real taste of the region.

6 days — Add the human side

One extra day gives the journey much more depth. Use it for another outdoor experience — or step away from adventure entirely and spend time discovering Mapuche culture through a more immersive encounter.

7–8 days — Adventure, then exhale

Now we can slow everything down. After Conguillío and Pucón, continue towards Huilo Huilo for a couple of days surrounded by forest. Walk when you feel like it. Enjoy the thermal waters. Stay somewhere beautiful. Do very little. Then continue towards the Lake District — rested rather than exhausted.

Sometimes the best way to end an adventure is to stop adventuring for a while.

Sometimes the best way to end an adventure is to stop adventuring for a while.

Sometimes the best way to end an adventure is to stop adventuring for a while.

Good to know

Choose your season

Personally, I would avoid Pucón in January and February if your dates are flexible. These are peak summer holiday months in Chile, and Pucón's geography means traffic can become part of the experience — in all the wrong ways. I prefer October to December, or March and April. Autumn is particularly beautiful, when the forests begin to change colour and the landscape takes on an entirely different character.

Rent a car

You can explore parts of Araucanía using public transport. But I wouldn't recommend it for the kind of journey I like to design here. Having your own car saves considerable time, makes it much easier to combine parks, activities and accommodation, and gives you the freedom to explore a region where tourism infrastructure becomes thinner once you leave the main hubs. English is also less widely spoken once you move away from the more tourist-oriented areas, which is all part of the experience — but worth knowing beforehand.

Reserve the thermal baths

After a long day on the trail, discovering that the thermal baths are fully booked is not the kind of adventure we're looking for. For the most popular ones, I recommend reserving ahead — ideally at least a week in advance during busy periods.

Check the parks before you go

Summer brings beautiful hiking conditions, but also wildfire risk. National parks and trails can occasionally close at short notice because of fire danger or other weather conditions. I keep an eye on current conditions so that, if something changes, we can adapt the journey rather than simply lose a day.

Don't underestimate the sun

You'll spend a lot of time outdoors here, often walking for several hours with significant sun exposure. High-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat belong in your daypack even when the temperature doesn't feel particularly hot. And yes, reapply.

Pack for activity, not appearances

Comfortable hiking shoes, layers, a waterproof jacket, swimsuit and a small daypack will take you a long way here. Araucanía is a region where you'll probably spend more time getting muddy, wet, sweaty or wonderfully tired than worrying about what you're wearing.

Dress for the day you want to have.

If I had one day in Araucanía…

I'd wake up early in Pucón and start with a generous breakfast. I'd need it. Before leaving town, I'd stop at a local bakery for a couple of sandwiches, then get in the car and drive towards Huerquehue National Park.

The next four or five hours would be spent walking. Through the forest, beneath enormous trees and ancient araucarias, climbing gradually until the trail finally reaches the lakes hidden higher in the mountains. That's where I'd stop. Sandwiches by the water, shoes off, nowhere to rush to — and, if the sun is out, perhaps a short nap with nothing but birds around me.

Then back down to the car, tired in exactly the right way. But the day isn't over. On the way back towards Pucón, I'd stop at the thermal baths and sink into warm volcanic water, surrounded by vegetation with the sound of the river below. After hours on the trail, I can't imagine anything better.

Then back to Pucón, hungry again, for a generous dinner and grilled meat. Hike. Eat. Rest. Soak. Eat again.

My kind of day in Araucanía.

My kind of day in Araucanía.

My kind of day in Araucanía.