

A place that makes you feel wonderfully small.
I've travelled to Atacama six times, and its landscapes still manage to surprise me. There is something deeply humbling about standing in such vast, seemingly untouched spaces — watching the colours change as the sun moves across the desert, seeing wildlife survive in extreme conditions, and looking up at a night sky that suddenly reminds you just how small we are. Atacama feels almost otherworldly. And somehow, every time I return, it feels different.

Experiences I love

Cycle through Catarpe
Explore the canyon at your own pace, surrounded by changing colours and extraordinary rock formations. Stop at Pukará de Quitor along the way and experience the desert with the freedom that only a bicycle gives you.
Discover wine where you least expect it
Growing vines in one of the driest places on Earth sounds almost impossible — which is precisely what makes discovering Atacama's high-altitude wine so fascinating. A story of adaptation, resilience and ingenuity.



Look up
An astronomical tour in Atacama is more than looking through a telescope. Seeing Saturn or Jupiter beneath an extraordinarily clear sky gives you a very tangible sense of our tiny place in the universe.
Stand on top of Cerro Toco
A high-altitude ascent with around 400 metres of elevation gain that offers an extraordinary reward: the sensation of standing on the roof of the world, surrounded by volcanoes and the Altiplano stretching towards the horizon.

The classics, differently.
Some places are famous for a reason. The secret isn't always to avoid them — sometimes, it's simply to experience them differently.

Valle de la Luna
Beautiful, but timing and group size can completely change the experience. I prefer exploring it privately when possible, or choosing nearby Vallecito when a more intimate experience makes sense. Finish with a sunset aperitif overlooking the desert, and the day takes on a completely different rhythm.
Piedras Rojas & the Altiplanic Lagoons
These landscapes are extraordinary. When logistics allow, changing the usual order of the visit can help avoid arriving alongside the main groups. But context matters: if your journey continues into the Extreme North or towards Uyuni, I might recommend spending that day differently.


El Tatio
Seeing geysers at sunrise can be impressive — particularly if you've never experienced a geothermal landscape before. If you've already visited places such as Iceland or Yellowstone, however, I may suggest prioritising something else. And because El Tatio combines a very early departure with high altitude, I never treat it as just another excursion to squeeze into the itinerary.
The question isn't only what's worth seeing. It's what's worth seeing for you.
Is Atacama for you?
Atacama is for travellers who are moved by vast landscapes, curious about the night sky, drawn to adventure or simply fascinated by places that feel unlike anywhere else on Earth. It can be surprisingly varied, too. Families can explore canyons and salt lagoons, active travellers can cycle, hike or climb a volcano, while those looking for comfort can return each evening to a beautiful hotel and a great meal in San Pedro. But Atacama isn't for everyone. If you dream of lush green landscapes, dislike spending time on the road or want to explore absolutely everything independently, another region of Chile might suit you better. The desert can also be an expensive destination, with accommodation, entrance fees and experiences quickly adding up. And altitude matters. Many of Atacama's extraordinary landscapes lie above 4,000 metres, so the itinerary needs to be designed with acclimatisation in mind.
Practical insights
How long should you stay?
3 nights — A first glimpse
Enough to experience some of Atacama's defining landscapes and its extraordinary night sky, but expect a fairly active pace.
4 nights — More balance
An extra night gives us more freedom to combine the classics with a different experience — and avoid making every day a long excursion.
5 nights — My recommendation
This is where Atacama begins to breathe. There is time for the Altiplano and the desert's iconic landscapes, but also for cycling, hiking, horse riding, a volcano ascent or simply a slower morning.
6+ nights — Go deeper
Perfect for travellers planning more ambitious climbs, families who want time by the pool, those interested in local culture, or anyone who simply doesn't want to rush.

Freedom where it makes sense. Expertise where it matters.
Atacama doesn't have to be experienced entirely on a group tour. A rental car can give you wonderful freedom for some parts of the region, while other excursions are better experienced with a knowledgeable guide — particularly when high altitude, remote roads or very early departures make independent travel less advisable. I often prefer a combination: independence when the road is part of the pleasure, a small group when it makes sense for the budget, and a private guide when flexibility and timing can transform the experience. There is no single right formula. It depends on how you like to travel.
Where to stay
After a day surrounded by extraordinary landscapes, I like coming back to somewhere comfortable, full of character — and within walking distance of San Pedro. The village has an atmosphere of its own, centred around Calle Caracoles and its restaurants, shops and evening life. Personally, I prefer staying within about ten minutes' walk rather than feeling isolated outside town. And character matters to me more than a category. Adobe walls, natural materials and thoughtful architecture feel at home here in a way that an anonymous hotel room never could. But that's my preference. Yours might be a swimming pool, exceptional service, complete tranquillity or a particular level of comfort — and that's what ultimately determines the choice.

Good to know
Give altitude time
San Pedro sits at around 2,400 metres, while many excursions climb above 4,000. I keep the first part of the journey lower and introduce altitude gradually, leaving the highest experiences until your body has had time to adjust. If you're continuing towards Uyuni, acclimatisation becomes an even more important part of the itinerary.
Dress like an onion
My Atacama rule: layers, layers, layers. Strong sunshine during the day can give way to surprisingly cold temperatures at night — particularly during astronomical tours and early-morning excursions.
Take the sun seriously
The desert sun is extremely strong. High-protection sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat are essentials, even when the temperature feels comfortable.
Bring your reusable bottle
I don't recommend relying on tap water for drinking. Many accommodations provide filtered-water refill points, so bring a reusable bottle.
Expect to disconnect
Once you leave San Pedro, mobile coverage can become very limited. In Atacama, being offline is often part of the experience.
And pack your swimsuit
Not only for your hotel pool. Floating in the salty waters of Laguna Cejar is one of those wonderfully strange desert experiences.
If I had one day in Atacama…
I'd wake up in a small hotel full of character in San Pedro and pick up a sandwich before heading out by bike towards Catarpe.

I'd stop at Pukará de Quitor, climb above the valley and eat lunch overlooking the desert.

Later, I'd find somewhere quiet to watch the sun disappear over the Salar de Atacama, before heading back to San Pedro for a dinner inspired by local flavours.
And then I'd finish exactly where Atacama deserves to be finished:
Where to next?
Itineraries coming soon

The classic Chile
Atacama · Lake District · Patagonia
Discover this journey

Chile for adventurers
Atacama · Araucanía · Lake District · Patagonia
Discover this journey

Chile in winter
Atacama · Extreme North · Rapa Nui
Discover this journey


